The Florida refuge where sea turtles love to nest

The state is best known for its manatees and alligators, but one of the world's most important sea turtle refuges is quietly located just 90 minutes from the theme parks of Orlando. From a lookout point over the dunes of Melbourne Beach, Florida, I gazed out into the Atlantic Ocean and immediately saw a pair of green sea turtles in the water near the shore. Another popped into view; then another. I counted five pairs within a couple of minutes. On the beach, a small group of people were sunbathing. I wondered if they had any clue that they were likely standing atop hundreds of sea turtle nests at that very moment. They may not have even known that they were in theArchie Carr National Wildlife Refuge, one of the most important sea turtle nesting sites on the planet, according to David Godfrey, executive director of theSea Turtle Conservancy. Florida is renowned for unique aquatic adventures like swimming with manatees and sighting dolphins, but each year, thousands of loggerhead and green turtles, as well as dozens of leatherback turtles, make their way across the world's oceans to mate and nest here. Yet the refuge – covering 33km between two unnamed barrier islands, stretching between the towns of Melbourne Beach and Wabasso Beach – is no remote space; it's a coastal destination filled with rows of pastel-coloured beach houses just 90 minutes from the tourist-thronged theme parks of Orlando. Parts were already privately owned when the refuge was established in 1991, so the zone is now a mix of protected wilderness and developed land. Conservation succeeds here not by separating humans and nature, but by allowing for their harmonious coexistence. Intrigued by this interaction, I'd come to Melbourne Beach to join asea turtle nesting tour.Because turtles usually nest and hatch at night, our tour began around 21:00 in an auditorium, where we learned about the species while trained scouts cautiously spotted for turtles on the beach. We waited eagerly but patiently, knowing that we wouldn't head to the shore until a turtle had come out of the water, dug a nesting hole and stood over it. Once ready to start laying eggs, the turtle would enter a trance-like state in which we could safely observe her without scaring or disturbing her. "They don't want to be seen [for fear of predators]", said Nichole Perna, land management specialist atArchie Carr's visitor centre, explaining that bright lights can "deter [them] from nesting". Driven by ancient instinct, female sea turtles typically nest every two or three years on the same beach where they hatched, or in proximity to it. However, they may not be able to nest if a beach has become too bright or noisy, or if barriers – human-made structures like breakwaters and groynes built to counteract coastal erosion – keep them from reaching the sand. Blair Witherington, a research scientist atInwater Research Group, explained that if this happens, the turtles "will shed their eggs in the water. These won't survive." As for eggs that are successfully laid: only one in 1,000 make it into adulthood. Many threats cause hatchling mortality; "chief among [them] are light pollution and coastal armouring," said Witherington. Lights can disorient hatchlings and prevent them from reaching the water, and barriers keep them trapped. It's no wonder that six out of seven sea turtle species are vulnerable, threatened or endangered. To protect these majestic animals, strict restrictions are imposed throughout Archie Carr during turtle season from March to October. Turtles bury their nests deep enough that daytime activities like running or fishing don't impact them, assures Perna. However, Mairi Brooks, the naturalist who led my 10-person nesting tour, explained that residents and tourists are barred from nighttime beach activities that could scare turtles like making too much noise or using handheld lights (including phones). Bylaw, private properties can't have lighting visible from the beach, so any illumination should be low-mounted and shielded and have long wavelengths. Perna credits these restrictions, along with education efforts and strict development laws, for the refuge's success. When surveying began in the area in 1983, there were around 13,000 turtle nests. In 2023, that number was more than 44,000, Brooks reports. Godfrey also emphasises that Archie Carr has "the largest number of loggerhead nests… in the world". Though efficient, this coexistence model is not without tensions. We saw conflict first-hand on our tour. Almost as soon as we were called out to the beach, we had to go back into the auditorium. Something had spooked the turtle; most likely a loud group of fishermen that had put up lights. Rangers were called to intervene and the fishermen happily complied to turn off most of them and reduce the noise. "For the most part," said Perna, people "want to do the right thing for the turtles." Plan your trip: When to go:Nesting tours run in June and July (book with theSea Turtle ConservancyorFriends of the Carr Refuge). From August to October, join a morning tour to survey hatched nests. Stay:Book the affordableFloridana Beach Motelor the beachfrontSeashell Suites Resort. Do: •Juan Ponce de León Landing: Public beach with facilities at the sight of the Spanish explorer's Florida landing. •Sebastian Inlet State Park: Offers lagoon beaches, fish and boating access, a restaurant and a gift shop. •Maritime Hammock Sanctuary Trail: Two-mile hike that crosses wetlands and marsh ponds. •Barrier Island Center at Doc Ehrhart Sanctuary*: Free education centre with interactive exhibits on sea turtles and the areas protected by the Archie Carr refuge. •McLarty Treasure Museum: Displays artefacts found in a 1715 Spanish shipwreck. Sadly, not everyone is cooperative, especially outsiders who may not understand why these rules exist. Isabelle DeSantis, owner of theFloridana Beach Moteland a volunteer at the visitor centre, reports that tourists hanging out at the beach after dark have insulted her when she's asked them to turn off their lights. Perna also remarks that Airbnbs can be more problematic than hotels, since owners aren't around to enforce regulations. Both believe growth is another issue, with outside developers pushing to allow more construction in the area. A few minutes after the fishermen issue was resolved, our scouts spotted another turtle. We walked along the moonlit beach in a single file until we saw Jolene, as the youngest member of our group named the turtle. A small loggerhead, Jolene was beautiful – literally one in a 1,000. We sat quietly on the sand, close enough to smell her mustiness and hear her softly grunting with effort each time she laid an egg. Throughout the season, she'll lay around three to six nests. Modern sea turtles emerged when dinosaurs still ruled the Earth. Seeing a turtle nesting is witnessing "something that's been going on for 100 million years in virtually the exact same way", Godfrey excitedly declared. Watching Jolene, I thought about how these organisms survived the extinction event that killed the dinosaurs, but they might not survive us. Nesting tours are guided, require a state permit and have a limited number of participants. Witherington claims their impact is small, yet they can create "an enthusiastic and informed sea turtle constituency". Godfrey agrees, adding that the walks show "the community and governments that people care enough about these animals to want to see them, and they're willing to spend money [for it]". This "helps justify the investment in creating the refuge", he asserts. Turtles aren't the only benefactors of this continuous investment. While hiking the refuge, Perna and I saw trees with bobcat marks, yellow rat snakes, crab and tortoise burrows and thriving mangrove forests. Species like coyotes, manatees and cottontail rabbits also live here. Because many of these animals will prey on Jolene's eggs, she camouflaged her nest by carefully refilling it and then scattering sand around to cover it before slowly crawling back toward the water. She paused for a second right at the shore, then disappeared into the vastness of the ocean. Hopefully, she'll live a long life, and always return to find this beach still dark, quiet and protected. -- If you liked this story,sign up for The Essential List newsletter– a handpicked selection of features, videos and can't-miss news, delivered to your inbox twice a week. For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us onFacebook,XandInstagram.