Italian luxury fashion label Prada has said it acknowledges the Indian roots of its new footwear line, days after the design sparked a controversy in India. The sandals, showcased at the Milan Fashion Week last week, had an open-toe braided pattern that closely resembled the traditional Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. Prada described the sandals as "leather footwear" but did not mention its Indian origins, prompting backlash and allegations of cultural appropriation in India. Responding to the controversy, Prada told the BBC in a statement that it recognises that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian footwear. A Prada spokesperson said that the company has "always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions", adding that it was "in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic". This is a prominent industry trade body in the state. Last week, its chief had written to the brand, saying the design was commercialised without crediting the artisans who have preserved its heritage for generations. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's head of Corporate Social Responsibility, responded to his letter saying that the sandals were "at an early stage of design", according to Reuters. He also said that Prada was open to a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans" and the company would organise follow-up meetings to discuss this further. Named after a city in Maharashtra where they are made, Kolhapuri sandals trace their roots back to the 12th Century. Made from leather and sometimes dyed in natural colours, the traditional handcrafted sandals are sturdy and well-suited to India's hot climate. They were awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019. According to the World Trade Organisation, a geographical indication tag credits a good or product as having originated from a certain region or place, and is considered a mark of authenticity. Following the controversy, many artisans in Kolhapur said they were saddened by Prada's use of the design without giving due credit. "These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don't take advantage of others' labour," Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan, told BBC Marathi. The sandals cost a few hundreds rupees in India but Prada's premium pricing angered some. Industrialist Harsh Goenka highlighted this, saying the local artisans barely make any money for the same hand-made products. "They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture," he said. This is not the first time that global brands have been accused to appropriating Indian traditional products without crediting their roots. At the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, Gucci described a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown, sparking backlash. Earlier in May, a popular TikTok trend was criticised for calling dupatta, a traditional South Asian scarf, a Scandinavian scarf. In Kolhapur, however, some said the move had instilled a sense of pride in them. "Artisans are happy that someone is recognising their work," Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More told Reuters. Follow BBC News India onInstagram,YouTube,XandFacebook
Prada acknowledges footwear design's Indian roots after backlash
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"Prada Recognizes Indian Heritage of Footwear Line Amid Cultural Appropriation Controversy"
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Prada, the renowned Italian luxury fashion label, has recently acknowledged the Indian heritage of its new footwear line following backlash over allegations of cultural appropriation. The controversy erupted after the brand showcased sandals at Milan Fashion Week that bore a striking resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri sandals, which originate from the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. The sandals feature an open-toe braided pattern, and while Prada described them as 'leather footwear,' it initially failed to credit their Indian origins. This omission prompted significant criticism in India, with many accusing the fashion house of commercializing a design without recognizing the artisans who have maintained this cultural craft for generations. In response to the uproar, Prada issued a statement to the BBC acknowledging the sandals' inspiration from traditional Indian footwear and reaffirmed its commitment to celebrating craftsmanship and heritage. The company has also engaged with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture regarding this issue, following a letter from its chief highlighting the lack of credit given to local artisans.
The Kolhapuri sandals, which date back to the 12th century and are crafted from leather, are known for their durability and suitability for India's warm climate. They were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, emphasizing their authenticity and regional significance. Following the backlash, artisans from Kolhapur expressed their disappointment over Prada's use of their traditional design without proper acknowledgment. Local artisan Prabha Satpute emphasized that the sandals are a product of hard work and should be associated with Kolhapur. The pricing of Prada's sandals, which are significantly higher than the local artisans' products, has also raised concerns about the exploitation of traditional crafts for profit by global brands. While some artisans feel pride in the recognition of their work, others lament the lack of financial benefits from such appropriations. The incident highlights a broader issue of cultural appropriation faced by traditional Indian artisans, as seen in similar controversies involving other global brands in the past.
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