As Punjabi hip-hoppers go global, bhangra outfits get a makeover

Indian singer Diljit Dosanjh's Met Gala debut last month left a lasting impression on global fashion. The 41-year-old singer, who is the only Punjabi musician to perform at Coachella, walked the red carpet dressed like an early 20th Century maharajah. His opulent ivory and gold ensemble - created by designer Prabal Gurung - complete with a feathered bejewelled turban, trended in India for weeks. He also wore a gorgeous diamond necklace, its design inspired by a Cartier piece worn by an erstwhile king of the northern Indian state of Punjab. A Panthère de Cartier watch, a lion-headed and a jewel-studded sword completed the ensemble, which had a map of Dosanjh's home state embroidered on the back of the cape along with letters from Gurmukhi, the script for Punjabi language. Of course, Dosanjh is no stranger to such style. Just like his music, he's carved out a niche in fashion too - a hip hop singer who is known for melding traditional Punjabi styles with Western influences. Often seen in anti-fit trousers, chunky sneakers, and stacks of necklaces that he matches with his colourful turbans, his unique form of self-expression has captured the imagination of millions, leading to interesting reinventions in the traditional Punjabi attire. The changes can be felt everywhere. A 16-minute high-intensity bhangra competition in California would be impossible without high performance sneakers. And basement bhangra nights in Berlin are enjoyed in crop tops and deconstructed pants. Punjabi music itself, high on volume and energy - with lyrics packed with the names of cities and global luxury brands - has become a subculture. It's not just Dosanjh - several other Punjabi musicians have also influenced the region's style game. Not long ago, Punjabi-Canadian singer Jazzy B's rings, often the size of a cookie, along with his plus-sized Kanda pendant and silver blonde hair tints, were trending. More recently, the yellow tinted glasses worn by singer Badshah; the baggy hoodies sported by Yo Yo Honey Singh; and AP Dhillon's Louis Vuitton bombers and Chanel watches have been hugely popular with Punjabi youth. But even though their influence was significant, it was restricted to a region. Dosanjh and a few others like him, however, have managed to mount it to a global level, their style speaking to both the Sikh diaspora as well as a broader audience. For instance, the t-shirts, pearls and sneakers Dosanjh wore to his world tour last year were sold out in a matter of hours. Dhillon's style statements at Paris Couture Week have created aspiration among Punjabi youth. Cultural experts say that this reinvention, both in music and fashion, has its roots in Western pop-culture as most of the artistes live and perform in the West. "Punjabi men are inventive. The region has been at the forefront of fusion, it believes in hybridity. This is especially the case with the Punjabi diaspora - even when they live in ghettos, they are the showmen [of their lives]," says art historian, author and museum curator Alka Pande. Over the years, as the Punjabi diaspora community grew, a new generation of musicians began mixing modern hip-hop sounds with elements of traditional Punjabi aesthetics. Their distinct style lexicon - of gold chains, faux fur jackets, plus-sized accessories, braids and beards - went on to spawn media articles, books and doctoral theses on South Asian culture. The coin dropped instantly back home in Punjab, which absorbed logo fashion like a sponge when luxury brands arrived in the 2000s. For Punjabis - who are largely a farming community - it was an aspirational uprising, symbolic of how success and prosperity should look. "It symbolised the movement of the Punjabi identity from a farmer to a global consumer," says acclaimed singer Rabbi Shergill. Arguing that performers, like everyone else, are a product of their times, Shergill says these impulses are "a response to the hyper capitalist world". Curiously, the style game of Punjabi musicians - from hip-hop, R&B, bhangra pop, fusion, Punjabi rap, reggae or filmy music - has also remained rooted and androgynous, instead of being hyper masculine. A pop star may wear Balenciaga or Indian designer Manish Malhotra's opulent creations; perform anywhere from Ludhiana city to London; dance with Beyonce around Dubai's Burj Khalifa, atop a luxury car, or in a British mansion - but they always wear their Punjabi identity on their sleeves. Dosanjh underlined this clearly with his maharajah look at the Met Gala. "It's like the popularity of his androgynous style was waiting to happen," Pande says. The composite impact of this trend on emerging artists is unmissable today in Punjab. Local Bhangra performances, for instance, are no longer limited to traditional "dhoti-kurta-koti" costume sets paired with juttis (ethnic footwear). Performance attire now includes sneakers, typographic T-shirts, deconstructed bottoms and even denims. "Such items are highly sought after by customers," says Harinder Singh, owner of the brand 1469. The merchandise in Singh's stores, includes accessories popularised by Punjab's music stars, such as versions of Phulkari turbans worn by Dosanjh, Kanda pendants that were first popularised by veteran Bhangra artist Pammi Bai. Singh himself owns turbans in more than a 100 shades. Even overall men's style in Punjab bears some of this cosmopolitan twang. Young poet Gurpreet Saini, who performs at cultural festivals across India, says he sources his shawls - printed with ombre Gurmukhi letters - from Hariana, his hometown in Punjab, for a distinctive look. He admits to the influence of music icons, including those like folk singer Gurdas Mann, who he grew up watching. What began as personal flair in some cases, went on to become fashion statements. Now these choices are cultural signatures. They have recast the Punjabi identity through rhythm, hybridity as well as a rooted sense of self. Follow BBC News India onInstagram,YouTube,TwitterandFacebook.