On a clear winter morning on the coast of New Zealand’s capital, a procession of steaming bodies emerge from a small shed-like building to throw themselves into the frigid sea.
Dripping wet, they return to sit in its 100 degree heat and wait for their skin to gather a patina of sweat before bolting back to the cool waters. Back and forth between the extreme temperatures they go, until an hour later they depart dreamy-eyed.
The sauna – a mobile unit parked up at Wellington’s Worser Bay – is running a roaring trade. Six days a week, from before dawn to well after dusk, Wellingtonians converge there to heat up, relax and socialise.
Until recently, New Zealand’s saunas were largely tucked away in upmarket spas, grimy gyms and public pools. But in a new – and perhaps a surprisingly late – addition to the nature-loving nation, saunas are popping up on beaches and in back gardens across the country as New Zealanders embrace the steamy ritual.
Over the winter months, temperatures in the North Island top out at 10-15C, while in the South Island it’s more like 8-10 degrees. Some regions dip below zero while in Wellington the fierce southerly winds can make a cool morning feel Arctic.
“In the winter, you crave that feeling of being warmed to the bone,” says Natalie Keegan, who is sipping on homemade kefir in a patch of sun after a sauna session.
But she says it is about more than escaping the winter cold. Keegan loves the sauna because it fosters community, is good for her health and helps her connect with nature.
Keegan runs an informal WhatsApp group for roughly 40 women who come together every full moon to sauna and ocean swim.
“It’s like a coven,” she laughs. “You’re in a space together sweating, your body is feeling extreme heat, you’re able to talk about things you might not usually bring up. It’s an environment that creates deeper connection and you’re in touch with nature.”
Kegaan is not alone. Google searches for saunas have tripled in the last five years and new operators are seeing sessions book out immediately.
Michael Burrell started Scenic Sauna two years ago.
Initially, locals were suspicious about the sauna and its benefits but that attitude has changed dramatically in the past eight months, he says. His business has gone from relying on a group of diehard sauna goers to flourishing with new converts who are spreading the word.
“We’re on the cusp of a boom here,” Burrell says.
New Zealand’s burgeoning love for the sauna follows a global trend –Australia,the UKandthe UShave similarly embraced the culture in recent years.
Researchers in Finland – home to 3.3 million saunas – havefound regular sauna usemay be linked to decreased blood pressure and risk of cardiovascular disease. Other studies have shown regular use maydecrease risk of psychosisin a middle-aged male population, while hot and cold sessionscould reduce risks of dementiaand Alzheimer’s disease.
At Lyall Bay – 15 minutes from Worser Bay – a woman stands in a towel, coils of hair slicked down on her flushed face. Behind her, a low rain cloud renders the sky and sea milky in the twilight, and another mobile sauna – run by the Sauna Project – glows.
“Its very relaxing, and I always feel more clear-headed afterwards – its a really nice way to start or finish a day,” says the woman, who comes every two weeks with friends.
“Instead of going for a coffee or a catch up after work, we come to the sauna,” she says.
The Sauna Project started three years ago in Mount Maunganui on the North Island’s east coast, and now has 17 locations across the country. The business also hosts an annual sauna festival.
“We’re turning into little Finland,” says the project’s Wellington manager, Johan Balzer.
“Its combining something that Kiwis already love – going to the ocean – with something that is exciting and new and makes you feel good,” Balzer says.
“In just one hour you can reset your whole mindset and people are getting really hooked on that.”