Tatar Bunar, a new Ukrainian restaurant in Shoreditch, east London, is styled as quaintly and charmingly rustic: wooden-fronted, with sage curtains, glass-panelled doors and stacks of higgledy-piggledy plates artfully arranged on shelves. Then there’s the food: sprats, potato latkes,varenyky, borscht and an abundance of wild mushrooms, and all of it influenced by chef Alex Cooper’s home town of Tatarbunary in southern Ukraine.It’s no mean feat to take on a corner of Curtain Road just yards from the shrieking neon ballpit that is theBallie Ballersoncocktail bar and aSimmonds“fun pub”, and somehow create Tatar Bunar’s nigh-rural ambience, or the odd sense that it’s been here since for ever. But then, Tatar Bunar is Ukrainian, so in recent years Cooper and his co-owner, Anna Andriienko, have faced down far bigger problems than tricky interior design.View image in fullscreenThere is nothing ‘measly’ about Tatar Bunar’s ‘big, plump’ mushroomvarenyk.Their new restaurant, the owners say, is an attempt to open up Ukrainian cuisine to a British audience. During the build and launch, Cooper remained in his homeland, where he uses the pair’s original restaurant as a food distribution point, while Andriienko was based in London. The result – featuring Ukrainian ceramics and materials from the Carpathian region in the country’s southwest, as well as putting the cooking in the very capable hands of Kate Tkachuk – certainly feels like a mini satellite version of their successful mothership,Tatar Bunar inOdesa.What Tatar Bunar certainly doesnotfeel like, however, is “a humble little restaurant run by proud people from a war-blighted country to keep their hope alive, etc”, or any other such patronising nonsense. This is a confident, expertly staged, rather sexy dining spot with flattering, soft peachy lighting, Bessarabian wagyu on the grill andBlack Seayafe nagarby the glass. In fact, it’s all rather glam: servers are clad in floor-length, rust-coloured gowns and the bill arrives with a postcard of a Ukrainian shepherd at twilight.View image in fullscreen‘It’s all rather glam’: Tatar Bunar’s borscht course.The crowd, when I visited, were in the main tall, sharp cheek-boned, model-esque types speaking Slavic languages, and within minutes of entering I muttered to myself: “This is going to be a terribly hard place to get into within a fortnight.” For a start, at a time when the London restaurant scene is awash with pricey European small plates that send you home hungry and angry, Tatar Bunar dishes up whopping great portions of sating carbs, cream and potatoes. Take the potato latkes with creamy wild mushrooms, which for £12 is a satisfying bowl of earthy joy. Or the £13 sprats “starter”, featuring roughly 10 fish, all boned, flattened, salted and served with a bowl of buttered boiled potatoes and a mound of pickled red onion. Or the truly delicious Bunar tartare: a semi-cooked lamb/beef tartare, if such a contradiction even exists, with a hunk of grilled bread. Similarly, there is nothing slinky or measly about thevarenyky, or dumplings, offering. A varenyk, I have learned, is akin to a Polish pierogi that, aesthetically, verges on a Jamaican patty. They are big, plump and here stuffed with minced meat or cabbage, or more mushroom and peppery potato.View image in fullscreenTatar Bunar’s generous starter portion of sprats comes with separate bowls of pickled red onion and buttery boiled potatoes.By the time we had finished those “small” plates and were moving on to mains, we were already well aware that we had chronically over-ordered. But who could blame us? I’ve spent 12 months being sold four small artichokes alone on a plate for £22. In modern London, no one actually expects to befedany more; these days, it’s more about the experience. Then along comes Tatar Bunar and its luscious lamb chops with show-stopping spicy pickled tomatoes. Oh, those tomatoes … so sweet, so powerful. And chunks of grilled cod with soft flakes, crisp skin and a generous pile of buttered samphire. No faff, no fuss, no lecture with each course, no long-winded explanation as to the cooking techniques involved, and no hovering or unwelcome input at all. Just dinner, and lots of it.Regardless of the lack of tableside lectures, I picked up a lot about Ukrainian cookery during the course of our meal, or at least Cooper and Tkachuk’s interpretation of it. Does the crisp-topped, generous, two-person portion of creme brulee strictly need to have an unexpected layer of pleasingly stodgy dumplings in the base of the dish? Well, yes, I rather think it does. And the crepes – short, fatly stuffed and folded, one filled with cheese, one with berries and a third with rich, black, fragrant poppy seed sauce – came in a bowl of glorious custard. Tatar Bunar is indulgent, delicious and a breath of fresh air. And it’s already most definitely a highlight of 2025.Tatar Bunar152 Curtain Road, London EC2, 07771 013190 Open dinner only, Tues-Sun, 6-10.30pm (10pm Sun). From about £50 a head à la carte, plus drinks and service
Tatar Bunar, London EC2: ‘No faff, no lectures. Just dinner, and lots of it’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants
TruthLens AI Suggested Headline:
"Tatar Bunar: A New Ukrainian Restaurant in Shoreditch Offering Hearty Cuisine"
The Guardian
7.4
TruthLens AI Summary
Tatar Bunar, a newly opened Ukrainian restaurant located in Shoreditch, east London, presents a charmingly rustic atmosphere with its wooden façade, sage curtains, and glass-panelled doors. The décor features an eclectic arrangement of plates that adds to its quaint aesthetic. The restaurant's menu, curated by chef Alex Cooper, showcases traditional Ukrainian dishes such as sprats, potato latkes, varenyky, borscht, and an array of wild mushrooms. Drawing inspiration from Cooper's hometown of Tatarbunary in southern Ukraine, Tatar Bunar aims to introduce Ukrainian cuisine to a broader British audience. Despite the challenges faced by its owners, including the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, the restaurant succeeds in creating a warm and inviting space that feels well-established, even amidst the bustling surroundings of Curtain Road, near lively venues like Ballie Ballerson and Simmonds pub.
The dining experience at Tatar Bunar is characterized by generous portions and a focus on hearty, satisfying meals. The menu features items like creamy wild mushroom potato latkes and sprats served with buttered potatoes and pickled red onions, showcasing the restaurant's commitment to substantial fare rather than the small plates trend prevalent in London. The ambiance is stylish and relaxed, with attentive service that avoids unnecessary theatrics or explanations, allowing diners to enjoy their meals without distraction. Highlights include lamb chops accompanied by spicy pickled tomatoes and grilled cod with buttered samphire, all served in a no-fuss manner. Desserts such as the uniquely layered crème brûlée and stuffed crepes add to the indulgent experience, making Tatar Bunar a refreshing addition to London's diverse culinary scene. With its commitment to authentic flavors and generous portions, Tatar Bunar is poised to become a standout destination for food lovers in the city.
TruthLens AI Analysis
The review of Tatar Bunar, a Ukrainian restaurant in London, highlights not only the culinary offerings but also the ambiance and the backstory of its owners. The article emphasizes the restaurant's attempt to introduce Ukrainian cuisine to a wider British audience, particularly in a vibrant and competitive area of Shoreditch. It presents Tatar Bunar as a confident establishment that defies traditional narratives surrounding restaurants from war-affected regions.
Intent Behind the Publication
The article appears to aim at normalizing and celebrating Ukrainian culture through its culinary expressions. It seeks to present the restaurant not merely as a refuge for war-affected individuals but as a sophisticated dining experience. By portraying the restaurant in a positive light, the article may encourage patronage and support for Ukrainian businesses, thus fostering a sense of community solidarity.
Public Perception and Narrative
The review attempts to shift the prevailing perception of Ukrainian establishments from being seen as “humble” or “patronizing” to being recognized as vibrant and contemporary. This aligns with a broader trend of promoting cultural appreciation rather than sympathy, which could resonate well with a cosmopolitan audience that values diverse culinary experiences.
Potential Omissions
While the article positively spins the restaurant's narrative, it may downplay the ongoing struggles faced by Ukraine. By focusing on the restaurant's charm and culinary offerings, it could obscure the broader socio-political context within which these entrepreneurs are operating. This might lead readers to overlook the realities of life in a war-torn country.
Manipulative Aspects
The review presents a polished image of Tatar Bunar that may seem slightly idealized. The use of glamorous language and descriptions can be seen as an attempt to elevate the restaurant's status, potentially leading to a disconnect with the struggles that inspired its creation. However, this presentation can also be viewed as a necessary step in reframing narratives around Ukrainian identity and resilience.
Truthfulness of the Content
The review is likely grounded in the authentic experiences of the restaurant owners and their culinary creations. Nevertheless, the evocation of a romanticized atmosphere might lead some to question the article's overall realism. The positive spin is well-intentioned but may obscure certain uncomfortable truths about the ongoing conflict in Ukraine.
Societal Impact
Articles like this can contribute to a more nuanced understanding of Ukrainian culture within the UK, potentially influencing public sentiment and increasing interest in supporting Ukrainian businesses. As the gastronomic landscape evolves, such narratives might encourage greater patronage of international cuisines, fostering cultural exchange.
Target Audience
The review likely appeals to urban, culturally curious individuals who enjoy exploring new dining experiences. It targets those who appreciate culinary diversity and are interested in supporting businesses with a compelling backstory, especially in the context of current global events.
Economic Implications
While the article itself might not directly impact stock markets, it could influence consumer behavior toward supporting Ukrainian businesses and restaurants. Increased patronage could lead to a ripple effect, encouraging investment in the broader Ukrainian economy.
Geopolitical Relevance
The restaurant serves as a microcosm of the larger narrative surrounding Ukraine’s struggle for identity and recognition amidst conflict. The positive portrayal of Ukrainian culture can contribute to a broader understanding and appreciation of the nation, which is particularly relevant in today’s geopolitical climate.
Use of Artificial Intelligence
There is no explicit indication that AI was used in crafting this article; however, it is possible that AI models may have influenced the editing or presentation style, especially in creating a polished narrative. The choice of descriptive and engaging language may reflect an attempt to appeal to a specific audience, often characteristic of AI-generated content. The review serves to elevate Ukrainian cuisine and culture while navigating complex narratives surrounding war and resilience. It is a thoughtful portrayal of Tatar Bunar, emphasizing its culinary offerings while subtly shaping public perception of Ukrainian identity amid adversity.