There’s a reason classic French bistros will never go out of fashion, and that’s because they serve food that, deep down, wereallywant to eat. Think the comforting familiarity of terrine and steak tartare, of onion soup and moules-frîtes, the sheer pleasure that is a properParis-Brestor tarte tatin … In my home town of Lyon, we’ve even developed our own local take on the bistro in the form of thebouchon, to showcase and preserve the region’s culinary traditions. Bistro, bouchon, brasserie: whatever you call it, this is, above all else, good, honest cooking, rustic rather than show-offy, and it’s made to share around a noisy table, whether that’s in a restaurant or in the comfort of your own home.
Yes, there’s a fair amount of soaking, curing and marinading going on here, but it’s all well worth the effort – plus none of it requires much in the way of actual hands-on work, anyway.
Prep20 minSoak24 hrCure6 hrMarinate12 hrCook5 hr 30 min+Serves4
For the lamb1.2-1½kg bone-in lamb shoulder100g table salt1-1½ tsprosemary leaves1-1½ tspthyme leaves1 tsp finely chopped garlicVegetable oil, for searing4 cloves new season garlic, peeled, cut in half and germs removedAbout 1 litre lamb stock
For the marinade50ml extra-virgin olive oil½ tsp espelette pepper½ tsp paprika50ml vegetable oil
For the beans250g dried flageolet beans50g finely chopped shallot(about 6 tbsp)50g finely chopped celery(about 3-4 tbsp)10g finely chopped garlic(about 2 cloves)8-10bay leaves(5g)2-3 tsp thyme leaves(5g)1 litrechicken stockSalt
Soak the dried beans in cold water for 24 hours. Meanwhile, put the lamb shoulder in a suitable dish in which it fits snugly, rub all over with the salt, rosemary, thyme and chopped garlic, then cover, refrigerate and leave to cure for six hours.
Wash the cured lamb, then dry well with a clean tea towel or kitchen cloth. Heat a little vegetable oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan or casserole, then sear the lamb shoulder until well coloured all over. Make eight deep cuts all over the seared lamb and push the halved new-season garlic cloves into the slits. Put the lamb back in the same dish, add all the ingredients for the marinade, toss to coat, then cover again, return to the fridge and leave to marinate for 12 hours.
Put the lamb and all its marinade in a large, cast-iron pot for which you have a lid, then pour in enough lamb stock to come halfway up the sides of the meat. Cover the pot and roast in a very low oven – 140C (120C fan)/300F/gas 1 – for five to six hours, until the lamb is very tender and all but falling off the bone. Take out of the oven and turn up the heat to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Baste the lamb in the pan juices until it’s well coated, then return to the oven uncovered for another 15 minutes, basting regularly with the pan juices, until the liquid reduces and the lamb is nicely browned and glazed.
After the lamb has been cooking for three to three and a half hours, drain the soaked beans and put them in an oven tray (ideally one for which you have a lid). Add the shallot, celery, garlic, bay and thyme, pour over the chicken stock, cover the tray (either with a lid or a thick double layer of foil) and bake alongside the lamb for 90 minutes. After the beans have had 45 minutes, season with salt, stir and finish off cooking. Just before serving, adjust the seasoning to taste.
Spoon the cooked beans on to a big platter and top with the lamb, either carved or whole to be carved at the table. Spoon over a generous amount of the cooking juices, take to the table and serve. A few new season carrots and/or some cabbage on the side wouldn’t go amiss, either.
At the restaurant, we make our babas in large traditionalkugelhopfmoulds, but at home you could also make individual ones in a six- or eight-hole muffin tin.
Prep10 minProve1 hrCook2 hr 15 minServes10
For the quick marmalade2 large oranges200g caster sugar30g lemon juice
For the rum syrup750g caster sugar375ml dark rum
For the chantilly100ml double cream100ml whipping cream1 vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out and reserved40g caster sugar
For the baba7g fast-action yeast, or 15g fresh yeast160g beaten egg(from about 3-4 eggs)250g strong white bread flour7g salt20g sugar50g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra softened butter for greasing
For the orange and rum glaze200g orange marmalade(see above and method)30ml dark rum
First make the quick marmalade. Using a small, sharp knife or peeler, peel the oranges, taking care not to take off too much of the white pith, then cut the skin into fine julienne strips. Pare off and discard the pith from the oranges, then segment the orange flesh. Put the peel in a small saucepan of water, bring to a boil, then fine-strain. Return the peel to the pan, cover with fresh water and repeat the process twice more. After the third strain, put the orange peel back in the pan, add the orange segments, sugar and 420ml cold water, and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer, and leave to cook for about 45 minutes, until thick, sticky and jammy. Take off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and leave to cool.
Now for the glaze. Once the marmalade is cool, measure 200g of the cooled marmalade into a small pan, add the rum and bring to a simmer. Strain to remove the solids, then set aside.
Put all the ingredients for the chantilly cream in a clean bowl, whisk to soft peaks, then cover and refrigerate until needed.
Now for the baba itself. Heat 90ml water to 28C (just above room temperature), then stir in the yeast. In a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment or with a hand whisk, beat the egg with the flour, salt and sugar, then beat in the yeast mixuntil well combined. Swap the whisk for the dough hook (or a wooden spoon) and mix on medium speed for five minutes, or until the dough comes together and starts to get stretchy.Slowly incorporate the melted butter, and mix until the dough is smooth.
Grease a 24cm kugelhopf tin (or a six- or eight-hole muffin tin) with softened butter, scrape in the baba mix, cover with a damp cloth or clingfilm,and leave to prove at room temperature for an hour, or until it’s risen to 2cm from the top of mould. Heat the oven to 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5, then bake for about 40 minutes (or for eight to 10 minutes if making baby babas), until nicely browned and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean.Remove from the oven, unmould at once on to a rack, then leave to cool for 10 minutes.
While the baba is baking, make the syrup. Put the sugar and rum in a medium saucepan with 750ml water, bring to a simmer, then leave to cool to lukewarm (40C). Slowly pour syrup all over the baba, letting it soak in first before adding any more, until it’s fully soaked all the way through, then put on a rack to cool.
Once the baba is completely cool, brush it all over with the orange and rum glaze, then slice and serve with the chantilly cream.
Claude Bosi is chef/patron ofJoséphine,Brooklands at the PeninsulaandBibendum, all in London.