Idon’t know about you, but I’m revelling in the asparagus, early strawberries and new potatoes that are flooding the local farmer’s market. Traders are no longer wrapped up tightly to withstand the cold, and there is a spring in everyone’s step. At the fish stall, some dressed crab caught my eye, and while I love nothing more than crab on toast with thick aïoli or a nuttysalsa macha, there was a nip in the air on the night in question, so I was drawn to this rich, warming dish instead. The onions are a vehicle for the spices, adding sweetness and depth to both potato cake and crab. On the side, a gloriously refreshing, spicy salad makes the most of mango season.
A rich, beautifully spiced potato cake studded with peas and silky-sweet onions.
Prep15 minCook1 hr 10 minServes4
4 tbsp vegetable oil40g butter700g white onions, peeled and finely slicedSea salt and black pepper1kg floury potatoes, peeled and quartered150g podded peas(fresh or frozen)2 large garlic cloves,peeled and minced30g thumb of ginger, peeled and minced2 tsp coriander seeds2 tsp cumin seeds1 tsp fenugreek2 tsp turmeric1 egg, beaten100g dressed crab– I like a mix of white and brown meat2 tsp black mustard seeds1 big handfulfresh curry leaves
To serveGreekyoghurtFresh coriander leaves1 lemon, cut into wedges
Set a heavy-bottomed frying pan on a medium heat, add half the oil and butter, then stir in the onions and a teaspoon of sea salt, and cook, stirring often, for 25 minutes, until the onions are soft and sweet; add a few tablespoons of water halfway, to stop them sticking to the pan.
Meanwhile, simmer the potatoes in a large pan of salted boiling water for about 20 minutes, until tender, then drain, reserving the water. Put the reserved water back in the pan, bring back to a boil, drop in the peas and simmer for a few minutes until tender, then drain. Put the empty pan on a low heat, tip the drained potatoes back in, leave to steam dry for a few minutes, then mash thoroughly.
Stir the garlic, ginger and all the spices bar the mustard seeds and curry leaves into the softened onions and cook for five minutes more. Put two-thirds of the onion mix in the potato pan (put the rest in a bowl), then add the drained peas and egg, and stir well.
Put the remaining butter and a tablespoon of oil in the same frying pan and set it on a medium-high heat. Tip in the potato mixture, flatten evenly and cook on a medium heat for seven to eight minutes. Flip and cook on the other side for another seven to eight minutes. (Alternatively, make smaller potato patties by dividing the mixture into six, rolling into balls, then flattening in the pan before frying.) Once cooked, leave to cool slightly while you make the crab tarka.
Put the remaining tablespoon of oil in a wok on a very high heat, stir-fry the reserved onion mixture with the crab, mustard seeds and curry leaves until sizzling hot, then season generously.
Cut the potato cake into wedges, top with the crab tarka and spoonfuls of yoghurt, finish with a scattering of coriander and serve with lemon wedges on the side.
A beguiling salad that sparkles with fresh citrus, chilli heat and herbs to add accents to sweet mango and deliciously spiced chickpeas.
Prep10 minCook25 minServes4
250g cooked chickpeasOlive oil2 tsp mild curry powderSea salt and black pepper1 small red onion, peeled and finely dicedJuice of1 lemon½ cucumber2 ripe mangoes, peeled and pitted1 tsp amchoor(mango powder), or sumac1 tsp ground cumin1 red chilli, finely diced1 handful each fresh mintand coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Tip the chickpeas into a bowl and rub dry with kitchen paper, removing some of the skins as you do so. Transfer the chickpeas to a lined baking tray with three tablespoons of oil, the curry powder and a generous pinch of salt, then toss to coat and bake for 12 minutes, until golden and starting to crisp up.
Meanwhile, put the onion in a bowl with the lemon juice. Roughly chop the cucumber and mango into 1-2cm chunks, add them to the bowl with a teaspoon of sea salt, the mango powder (or sumac), cumin and chilli, and stir to combine. Adjust the seasoning to taste, if need be.
Once the chickpeas have cooled slightly, add them to the salad bowl with the chopped herbs and another good glug of olive oil, then taste again and adjust as required. Serve with the potato cakes above.