Austin has become one of the most popular places in the US to move to, and also to visit. Droves of people descend on the city in March for the South by Southwest tech, film and music festival and in the fall for the Austin City Limits music festival. And Austin is one of thetop fivedestinations in the US for bachelorette parties. Don’t let the bachelorettes scare you away, though. Austin is a great place to spend a few days, so long as you do it like a local.
My family and I moved toAustin12 years ago, after living in New York for many years. I’ve also lived inWashington DC, theSan Francisco Bay Areaand Philadelphia. Austin has a feel all of its own: it has a world-class music scene, great food that now goes well beyond Tex-Mex and barbecue, Texas history and fun shopping and museums – all with less hassle than bigger cities in the US.
Here’s my guide to a long weekend there. In addition to picks for adults, I’ve included some recommendations for families that our kids (now teenagers) have loved through the years. And I’m vegetarian, so I’ve chosen some of the city’s best veggie eats options. Don’t worry, my meat-eating wife made sure that I included great barbecue choices, too.
Start your day with a walk or run on the trail at Town Lake (it’s officially labeled on maps as Lady Bird Lake, but locals refer to it as Town Lake). This 10-mile (16km) trail on both sides of a dammed portion of Texas’s Colorado River (a differentColorado Riverthan the bigger and more famous one) is tree-shaded, beautiful and one of Austinites’ favorite places to exercise. If you have time, walk through Zilker Park, which is right next to the trail. If you have kids, go to the new and very fun playground at Butler Park, complete with a splash pad just up the path from the playground.
Austin was one of the cities that started the food truck scene in the US several decades ago, and now there are more than 2,000 food trucks in the city. Some are located in trailer parks that have multiple truck options and picnic table seating. After your morning at Town Lake and Zilker Park, have lunch atthe Picnicfood truck park, or the nearby original location of local favoriteChuy’s(the Tex-Mex chain is now expanding throughout the US). Other great lunch options includeGreen MesquiteandCarpenters Hall.
In the afternoon, go for a swim atBarton Springs Pool. Open year-round, this massive basin measures three acres and is fed by underground natural springs. It’s open throughout the day, and it’s free before 8am and after 9pm.
Head back to your hotel or Airbnb for a rest, and then get ready for dinner. Tonight is casual: barbecue atTerry Black’s, or if you’re vegan, the food truckRollin Smokefor a fantastic vegan barbecue sandwich made with baby portobello mushrooms, spicy slaw, barbecue sauce and pickles. It’s my favorite vegan barbecue sandwich in Austin (who says you can’t have barbecue if you’re veggie?), and it’s located in a food truck park with beautiful old trees shading the tables. Rollin Smoke has very good meat options, too (I’m told).
If you have young children, head toPhil’s Icehouse. They have burgers and a full playground where the kids can play before or after dinner. Just don’t put them on the spinning flower after the meal. And be sure to get some ice-cream after dinner atAmy’s Ice Creams, a longtime favorite of Austinites. Amy’s is located next to Phil’s, and it’s so good we had an Amy’s truck serve dessert at our wedding.
After dinner, head out to see some music at one of Austin’s many local music venues. One of our favorites is theContinental Club. There’s a main club downstairs and the intimate Continental Gallery upstairs, where you can see local musicians in a cozy space. Other great venues includeC-Boy’sand the newMoody Amphitheater. For full local music listings on any night, check theAustin Chronicle. And if it’s summer, look to see ifBlues on the Greenhas a free concert that night. If you have kids, take them to the freeRock the Parkconcert series, produced by local radio station KUTX.
Start your day back at the lake with a rowing workout that’s almost, but not quite, on the lake.Rō Fitnessis a local studio that has outdoor rowing classes by the water. It’s way more fun than working out at an indoor studio.
You’ll need fuel after your workout. Grab a breakfast taco atVeracruzorTacodeliorTamale House East. Breakfast tacos are an Austin staple (they are to Austin as bagels are to New York), and all three of these places have delicious options.
Today is a shopping day. Start out atBookPeople, one of the greatest bookstores in the US. It’s locally owned and independent, but the size of a superstore. BookPeople also dares to take a stand on issues, including being one of two bookstores that recentlysuedTexas state officials over a newly passed book ban law. It has an excellent kids section, and organizes live readings by kids’ authors.
After you’ve gotten your book fix, head across the street toWaterloo Records, one of the best record stores in the US. Waterloo carries new and used vinyl, CDs and merchandise from rock to jazz to local Texas music. For more shopping options, head over to the stores along South Congress Avenue and South First Street (includingRoadhouse Relics, a neon art store and gallery that is one of our favorites), and if you want to go thrifting, our teens sayAustin Pets Alive ThriftandTexas Thriftare the best.
After all of the shopping, it’s time for lunch. If you’re near BookPeople and Waterloo, head over toSoup Peddler,a local place for homemade soups, smoothies and fantastic grilled cheese sandwiches (trivia: Soup Peddler got its name because the founder started out delivering homemade soup by bike before opening full store locations). Or if you’re near South Congress and South First, go to the food trucks on South First orUnderdogorFresa’s.
As you’re heading back to rest up, grab an ice-cream at Amy’s, a gelato atDolce Neveor cupcakes atSugar Mama’s.
Some good dinner options for tonight includeLoro,SuerteorEste. And if you’re looking for a vegetarian option, one of my favorite veggie restaurants isBouldin Creek Cafe. It’s casual, with a great menu that includes vegan chips and queso. If it’s nice out, take a seat on the patio.
Tonight’s activity could be going to see the bats at the Congress Street Bridge. Austin has the largest urban bat colony in North America, and in season they live in one of the bridges that crosses the Colorado River (they migrate to Mexico in the cooler weather). Bat-watching is a lot more fun than you might imagine from horror movies (and these bats look more like birds than vampire bats). If you’re not in the mood for bats, head to the legendaryBroken Spoke. Get there early for dance lessons, then hoof it at this classic Texas honky-tonk.
It’s your last day in Austin, and it’s a good one for visiting a museum. Some of our favorites include theBullock Museumto learn all about the history of our state (bonus fact:Texaswas once its owncountry, and some people want it to be its own countryagain). If you’re a fan of 1960s history, visit the excellentLBJ Presidential Library, which is the home of the 36th president’s papers. It has good exhibits on the US civil rights movement and 1960s US history in general. Another excellent museum option is theBlanton Museum of Art, or you couldtour the Texas capitol(Austin is, after all, the capital of Texas). If you’re a nature fan, head to theLady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. And if you have kids, theThinkeryis an excellent children’s museum.
For lunch, it’s time for more barbecue (you’re in Austin, don’t fight it). Two terrific barbecue trucks areMickelthwaitandLeRoy and Lewis. And LeRoy and Lewis has another of my favorite vegetarian barbecue options: cauliflower burnt ends.
In the afternoon, head back to Town Lake. This time, get outon the waterby renting a kayak, stand up paddleboard or paddle boat (a kid-friendly option). If you have time and energy for a drink, head over tothe ABGBfor happy hour. They have a great beer selection, lots of outdoor seating and local bands playing music.
For your farewell dinner, a few of our favorite restaurants that are a bit on the fancier end areHestia,Uchior theLenoirwine garden, where dinner is served under live oak trees more than a hundred years old. And for a fantastic vegan option, go toFabrikfor a seven-course vegan tasting menu. You’ll need a reservation well in advance (they’re currently booking four to six weeks out). And for your final night in Austin, head out to another music venue. Or if you have kids, take them to the Austin favoritePeter Pan Mini Golf, which has been around for 75 years, or checkDo512 Familyfor family events that are happening the dates you’re in town.
There’s no dispute: it’s hot in the summer inAustin. A great time to visit is between October and May. From June through September, many days will be over 100F. If you’re here in the summer, spend lots of time at the Barton Springs pool.
Austin hotels can be expensive during big events like South by Southwest or the Formula One weekend. But for most dates, it’s less expensive than larger cities like New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco.
Most of the places that I’ve recommended are within walking distance from downtown. You can also rent bikes and scooters to get around. Austin’s public transportation is primarily through local buses, which can take you further out if needed. And car-share options are easy as well.
Steve Sachsis managing director of the Guardian US. He has worked at large and startup media companies for more than 20 years. He loves all kinds of music, and his most recent favorite concert, the Texas Songwriters Hall of Fame Show, featured a host of singer-songwriters including Lyle Lovett and Emmylou Harris