From a Memphis fried chicken joint to a tamale counter in Jackson, these restaurants didn't just feed civil rights leaders – they funded, sheltered and fuelled the fight for equality. The unassuming brick-and-siding facade ofLannie's BBQ Spotin Selma, Alabama, belies the rich history within. Named one of the nation's best restaurants byUSA Today, this family-run eatery has long been more than a place for charred ribs and tangy sauce. As BBC Travel show host Reece Parkinson discovered on a recent trip to mark the 60th anniversary of theprotest march from Selma to Montgomery, Lannie's also played a vital role in the civil rights movement. "My mother and my grandmother fed a lot of people in the march," said Floyd Hatcher, who runs Lannie's today. His grandmother, Lannie Moore Travis, opened the restaurant in 1942 and made it one of Selma's first racially integrated dining spaces. During the 1965 Selma march for equal voting rights – which was met with extreme violence – Lannie's became a safe haven for protestors to gather. "Barbecue brings people together," Hatcher added. "Don't care what race you are." Today, restaurants like Lannie's are still bringing people together, serving up delicious dishes alongside a deeper understanding of the role these spaces played in the fight for justice. This year marks both the 60th anniversary of the Selma March and the 70th anniversary of theMontgomery Bus Boycott, where African Americans refused to ride the city's public transportation in protest of segregated seating laws. These historical milestones shine a light on the movement's famous activists as well as on the small, Black-owned businesses that helped make the fight for equality possible. "Food was always a crucial component of the civil rights movement," explained Bobby J Smith, associate professor of African American studies at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign and author of the bookFood Power Politics: The Food Story of the Mississippi Civil Rights Movement. "Bringing food to the conversation really just expands the story that we already know. It also introduces new characters, new programmes [and] new actors. There [were many] unnamed women who were doing that kind of work." More like this: •The illegal church at the heart of US history •The flawless biscuit that took years to master •The Alabama museum grappling with the 'Gulf of America' According to Smith, Black-owned restaurants, and even home cooks, were in many ways the bedrock of the movement, putting lives and livelihoods on the line for justice. They provided more than meals; they offered safe spaces to meet and strategise, gave moral support, and in some cases, covered travel and bail costs that were out of reach for many of the working-class activists. Whether through fundraisers, bake sales or out-of-pocket donations, Black business owners throughout the US South used their success and community status to do the quiet work of funding a revolution. The anniversaries of these momentous events come as the US wrestles with the implications ofsweeping funding cutsto institutions that support African American history. "Whether it's in university spaces, in federal agencies [or] just in everyday lives, these kinds of stories are being erased or sidelined," Smith said. "But food can be that space to recover [them]." Though many of the businesses from the movement have closed, there are several restaurants across the South that were once important hubs for strategy, solidarity and community. Here are five you can still visit: A New Orleans institution known for its classic Creole cooking,Dooky Chasewas a hotspot for civil rights organisers, lawyers and freedom fighters in the 1950s and still offers classic New Orleans dishes like seafood gumbo to politicians and celebrities today. Not only were civil rights icons like Thurgood Marshall, Ernest "Dutch" Morial and Oretha Castle Haley all frequent patrons, but chef Leah Chase, sometimes called the "Queen of Creole Cuisine", transformed its dining room into a gallery space for the city's African American artists. Originally opened in 1942 as the Siesta Club,Brenda's Bar-B-Q Pithas been a staple in Montgomery ever since. Brenda's back room was used as a safe haven during the Montgomery bus boycott, where organisers could meet and create leaflets to hand out in support of the movement. It was also where owner Jereline Bethune taught reading and writing classes to help African Americans pass the discriminatory literacy tests required to vote in elections. Today, the tiny, brick take-out joint still serves up some of the best barbecue in the city, though visitors should be sure to bring cash. Located in the historic neighbourhood of Soulsville, near the legendary Stax recording studio (now theStax Museum of American Soul),The Four Wayis a classic soul food restaurant with long ties to the African American community. It hosted many of the city's civil rights leaders, including Martin Luther King Jr, who frequently dined here before his assassination in 1968 at the Lorraine Motel in downtown Memphis, now theNational Civil Rightsmuseum. Visitors can order a classic "meat and three", a main meat dish with three sides, while perusing photos of the icons who dined here. Once referred to as the unofficial headquarters of the civil rights movement for the number of activists that visited,Paschal'shas prepared Southern dishes, like their famous fried chicken, since 1947, first at the original location on West Hunter Street and now in the Castleberry Hill Arts District, where it moved in 2002. The Paschal brothers, who owned the restaurant, were key figures in the movement, often posting bond for protestors and serving complimentary meals to families reuniting with loved ones who had been detained or arrested by police for their involvement in protests. Known for itspig ear sandwiches and Mississippi hot tamales, the originalBig Apple Innwas a fixture on Farish Street, which was the centre of Black life in Jackson in the 1950s and '60s. In 1954, the space above the small family-owned takeaway spot served as the offices for the activist Medgar Evers, the Mississippi field secretary for the NAACP (the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People), a civil rights organisation dedicated to equality for African Americans. Evers was instrumental in leading the fight for desegregation of Mississippi schools, beaches and parks before his assassination in 1963. -- If you liked this story,sign up for The Essential List newsletter– a handpicked selection of features, videos and can't-miss news, delivered to your inbox twice a week. For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us onFacebook,XandInstagram.
5 restaurants that fed the civil rights movement
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"The Role of Restaurants in Supporting the Civil Rights Movement"
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Throughout the civil rights movement, several restaurants across the United States played crucial roles beyond merely serving food; they became pivotal spaces for strategy, community, and support among activists. For instance, Lannie's BBQ Spot in Selma, Alabama, established in 1942, was one of the first racially integrated dining establishments in the area. Floyd Hatcher, who currently runs the family-owned restaurant, shared how his grandmother, Lannie Moore Travis, provided meals and a safe haven for marchers during the violent 1965 Selma to Montgomery protests. Similarly, establishments like Dooky Chase in New Orleans and Brenda's Bar-B-Q Pit in Montgomery were not only known for their food but also as meeting points for civil rights leaders and organizers, with Dooky Chase transforming into a gallery for African American artists under the guidance of chef Leah Chase. These restaurants served as informal headquarters, where discussions about civil rights strategies took place alongside the sharing of meals, demonstrating the deep connection between food and community activism during this transformative period in American history.
In addition to providing sustenance, these restaurants often supported the movement financially and logistically. Bobby J Smith, an associate professor of African American studies, emphasized the significance of Black-owned restaurants as foundational to the civil rights struggle. They facilitated meetings, offered moral support, and at times contributed to travel and legal expenses for activists. For example, Paschal's restaurant in Atlanta, known for its Southern cuisine, was frequented by civil rights leaders who relied on the establishment for both nourishment and assistance. The Big Apple Inn in Jackson, Mississippi, served as a base for Medgar Evers, a key figure in the fight against segregation. As the anniversaries of pivotal events like the Selma march and Montgomery Bus Boycott are recognized, the contributions of these culinary spaces remind us of the intertwined nature of food, community, and the relentless pursuit of equality in America. The legacy of these restaurants continues to resonate today, illustrating how they were instrumental in fostering solidarity and resilience during a critical era of social change.
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